In winter, a hush and holy stillness settles over Yosemite National Park. It is, by any standards, a most magical and enchanting time to visit. On peaceful walks, you can easily imagine John Muir‘s first sighting of these granite domes and thundering waterfalls. In the chill of the day, under sapphire skies, the howls of coyotes drift across the Valley and mingle with mist floating above the meadows.
During this season, Yosemite’s waterfalls come roaring back to life courtesy of winter snow and rain. Any visit should include a hike to Yosemite Falls. Stream-fed, the voice of Yosemite Falls is a constant this time of year. The reality that this is the highest waterfall in North America is drowned out by the crashing din, “it’s overwhelming – dizzying,” says one couple. The word ‘awesome’ simply isn’t enough.” In the morning frost, early risers are treated to snow showers created by the fall’s spray.
During warmer months, visitors from around the world flock to Yosemite. Post-summer and autumn, the visitor tide ebbs, heralding an unhurried transition into a frosty hibernation. Following major holidays, Yosemite settles down for a winter nap. Less traffic in, out and around the Park is a bonus, not to mention that accommodations are more attainable.
Opened in 1927, the majestic lady of Yosemite is The Ahwahnee hotel. This celebrated Three-Diamond resort perches grandly amid the pines and by the granite Royal Arches. The Ahwahnee’s regal architectural details combine the best of the Art Deco and Arts and Crafts movements with a splash of Native American and Middle Eastern influences. Spacious common areas, 99 elegantly appointed rooms and 24 cottages offer exceptional romantic appeal and stunning views of Half Dome, Glacier Point and Yosemite Falls – three of Yosemite’s most famous natural landmarks.
Sun-drenched days in Yosemite Valley can be warm, but anytime is optimal for snuggling in front of a roaring fire. The Ahwahnee’s massive stone fireplaces and comfortable lounges offer reprieves from the cold.
Yosemite Village is an easy walk or shuttle ride from The Ahwahnee and other valley lodgings. Leave your vehicle parked during your stay and take advantage of environmentally-friendly transit. Snow doesn’t stay long on the valley floor, so walks and hikes are always possible. Many of the Valley trails remain open throughout the winter. You don’t have to be a rugged outdoors person to enjoy Yosemite. Walk outside and you’ll see things you won’t find anywhere else on earth – relish the peace and quiet. There’s plenty of that in winter.
Besides the usual seasonal pursuits, indulge in some retail therapy at the hotel gift shop and world-famous Ansel Adams Gallery. Interpretive displays at the Yosemite Museum depict the rich heritage of the Valley and its native people the Ahwahneechee. An exhibit of Native American basketry by Lucy and Julia Parker is renowned.
A legendary gala, adapted from Washington Irving’s “Sketch Book,” is the Bracebridge Dinner.. Trumpets announce the arrival of Squire Bracebridge and presentations of an elaborate seven-course feast are made on cue by the sounding of chimes during the performance. The main dining room of The Ahwahnee is transformed into an Elizabethan Yuletide pageant. Elaborate props, costumed characters, and period entertainment bring this 17th-century fête to life. You will, quite literally, be left speechless by this most sensory of celebrations.
Outside Yosemite’s boundaries, elegant and historic lodging comes in many guises. Two miles from the Park’s southern entrance, the Four-Diamond rated Tenaya at Yosemite offers superb accommodations – nothing less than luxurious; roaring fires, five seasonal restaurants, and heart-stopping scenery. Elegant lodge rooms and suites were recently remodeled, and explorer cabins feature extended space to share with family and friends.
After a day exploring, hiking, or snowshoeing unwind and indulge at Ascent the Spa. Inquire about kid activities. While you wine and dine or soak up some sun, off-spring can unwind at the expanded arcade or indoor heated pool. When the snow flies, an open-air ice-skating rink provides miles of chilly smiles. Incidentally, pet friendly, yes! Indulge your loving pooch with a Pampered Pet Package.
As temperatures drop and snow flies, nothing is quite as special as ice skating at Curry Village beneath the splendor of Half Dome and Glacier Point, the warmth of an outdoor fire ring and scrumptious winter s’mores is a winter dream. Yosemite Valley lodges provide shuttle service to Badger Pass Ski Area. If there’s significant snow at Wawona, people cross-country ski on the golf course across the road. Completed in 1878, the 130-foot Wawona Covered Bridge crosses the south fork of the Merced River and leads to the 1880s Pioneer History Center.
Get Your Badger Pass On! Like an old friend, Badger Pass Ski Area is quaint and welcoming. Generations of parents and children have cut their skiing teeth at Badger Pass, California’s oldest downhill ski area. With more than 85 percent of the slopes devoted to beginner and intermediate levels, this is understandable. There’s no friendlier place for the little ones than the Badger Pups program that offers customized instruction, ages four to six. The sundeck at Badger Pass answers all your wintertime prayers. After time on the slopes or trails, you’ll be ready to enjoy lunch with a full view of downhill daredevils. After refueling and relaxing, embrace your sillier side with a little snow tubing. There are also daily ranger-led snowshoe walks.
Cross-country skiing, snowboarding and showshoeing experiences in and around Badger Pass are both scenic and serene. Miles of groomed trails and fresh powder are unsurpassed even for first-timers. For those with true gusto, the 10-plus mile trek to Glacier Point Ski Hut will reward you with stellar views of Yosemite Valley. Excursions to the rustic stone and log lodge include lodging, meals and layover activities. Experiencing Yosemite’s wintry-white back county and starlit skies? Simply priceless.
In snow season, access to Yosemite is via highways 140 (west) 41 (south), and 120 (north). These scenic byways pass by historic towns and untold scenic wonders. Enjoy the sights and an occasional stop along the way for sightseeing and shopping – antiques, art galleries, museums, state parks, trendy boutiques, and wineries – California’s past and present lives on in these Gold Rush-era gems.
Even in sunny California, winter weather is unpredictable. It’s best to check ahead for road conditions and always travel with snow chains!
For more information, visit www. Yosemite.com.
